FA's, Jokes and New Horizons..

Constant, full weekends have finally taken their toll on me. This weekend  had some long walks, warm weather and was very tiring.....but what a weekend it was!

Beinn an Dothaidh

Saturday I headed to Beinn an Dothaidh above Bridge of Orchy with Euan and Ruaridh as I'd heard it was a "reliable venue". In my defence, the turbo thaw was destroying anything in condition so my point could still be valid. With optimistic minds we stomped up, sans map (like good ML's), into the mist to find something around grade III in condition.

One of many 'skiing' episodes

"Yea, there it is......"

Bulldog zip-line

Ultimately we found wet snow, unfrozen turf and generally unpleasant climbing conditions. Determined to make the most of the day out, we set about playing around like kids. First we made an entirely unnecessary abseil, complete with razor blade flying rock, only to re-ascend pretty much back the way we came onto the terrace. We then traversed around to the far west end of the corrie and climbed the easiest line up to the west top before a couple of hero shots and an action packed descent down the north ridge.

First Ascent: "Slush Puppy" I*

  * This is probably not an actual first ascent

The highlight of the descent (for me anyway) was our second new route of the day *chortle*. A stunning line straight up the impressive north ridge, this 3m ice route was sustained and pumpy. So much so that the weight of two axes, crampons, ropes and gear was too much for Euan and Roo, so they made a brave 'light and fast' assault on this formidable route. The first of the party made a desperate leap for the last hook and topped out successfully, reporting quality ice and bomber placements. Unfortunately, tragedy nearly hit when the second of the party needed to resort to a highly technical 'figure-four' manoeuvre in order to complete the last sequence. His placement ripped and he was sent plummeting to the base of the route, stopped only from falling to the bottom of the ridge by a well placed boulder. Mountain rescue was apparently on more pressing business, so he manned up and descended under his own steam.

First Ascent: "Rocket Lolly" WI1+

"I'll just try this figure-four..."

No.3 Gully Buttress, III***

On Sunday I met up with Jez whom i'd climbed with last year and Ruth, Phoebe and Sophie who had driven up with him from Surrey. The plan: big day on Ben Nevis....I was excited, the time had finally come.

We set off in darkness and immediately came up against the steep path through the forest which had me sweating buckets even in just a baselayer. 2 hours saw us to the CIC hut and I began to catch glimpses of the North Face through the mist. I'd had the idea that it would be smaller than I imagined and that the pictures over-emphasised the face....oh, how wrong I was!

Jez was to take the two girls towards Ledge route and I was going to climb with Ruth. We had a little think and discussion and ultimately settled on making the effort to get to No.3 Gully Buttress. Coire na Ciste was almost like a friendly village as we went up through the mist, leap-frogging other parties and meeting people on descent, we exchanged 'mountain pleasantries' and occasionally said "that's No.3 gully there, right?"

The approach

Ruth up the first pitch

The route eventually appeared in front of us and I was surprised how easily we found it, even if it did take 2 hours from the hut. It was at this point I was regretting the previous day on the hill and realised my hill fitness isn't up to scratch. Ruth led the first pitch up the snow ramp traversing first left, then back right. I did the next pitch up to the snow bay, stopping a little bit too early. This was due to a number of things: 1) sweat dripping down my face was making me blind; 2) wasn't sure how much rope left and 3) I was chuffing knackered. This was the point where I lost my sense of humour, cursing sugar snow and generally being a bit grumpy.

Getting used to Ben Nevis exposure

Ruth did a short pitch to get us just below the crux then kindly reminded me to man up, stop whinging and have something to eat. After much grumbling I set off for the crux pitch, not completely happy but determined to get off the route. At first a bit of 'holy crap, holy crap, holy crap' whilst pulling over the first rocky section then seeing the incredibly exposed traverse, but then a wave of happiness spread over me. Getting off the crappy snow ramps and onto to proper mixed terrain really changed my mood.

Ruth on the short traverse before the crux

Shortly after stopping for a breather (yes, I am that unfit) I made a belay and was joined by a chap from Manchester doing Thompson's Route. Ruth arrived at the belay and had such cold hands she stormed up the last pitch (that I thought was pretty dicey) and into the sunshine. The top out couldn't have been more amazing. I think only the pictures can really tell the story, but I think it rates as one of my best hill days ever! 

Jez and the girls had been super quick on Ledge route and had beaten us to the summit and were on the way down. After my bimbling around taking photos and trying not to fall through any cornices we caught up with them at the abseil posts on CMD arete before descending to Coire Leis and the long trudge back for a time of 12 hours car to car.

Another awesome day with awesome people. Just goes to show that a bit of warm weather will necessarily ruin your day.

Wow

'The French Guys' no doubt their 3rd route of the day

Obligatory summit shot

No need for abseil here...

 Please check out more photos below (opens in new window)

Beinn an Dothaidh		Ben Nevis

Torridon

Ling Hut

This weekend was the long anticipated DURC trip to the Ling Hut in Torridon. With nearly 30 people signed onto the trip, the YHA was booked for the overflow. The drive went pretty quickly, which I think was because I was not behind the wheel this time! A late night arrival followed by typical mass faffing ultimately led to the climbers getting the hut (for an ambitious early start) and the walkers heading to the cosy hostel.

I say cosy hostel as, on arrival, we found out that the generator in the hut was broken. Still, us climberers are hardy folk and frozen pipes are taken in our stride.

The path to the hut was pretty icy and those who preferred not to use headtorches did more dancing than walking. After much chat we finally bedded down about 00:30 intending to get up at 06:00.

Beinn Eighe across the loch

 The forecast for the weekend promised grim weather. Undeterred, we arose at 06:00 with our plans in mind and a large amount of optimism. Looking outside we were greeted we drizzle and wind. Before any of us had really woken up and made breakfast, Nik and Steve we nearly out the door. Nik was wearing a very old, very long waterproof (read: cagoule) and looked very much like I imagine many first ascensionist of the area once looked. A photo was taken of the pair before they set off towards Coire Mhic Fhearchair a) to show MRT and b) to put in the meets book in their memory.

South side of Spidean

Myself, Anna and Tim set off about 07:00 up the coire dubh path toward the north side of Liathach. Given the forecast I'd set aside my hopes of East Buttress of Beinn Eighe and thought that George III,4 would provide a good plan B outing. After about 3 hours of approach struggling to keep up with Tim we made it to the bottom and swiftly geared up, then solo'd up the first easy section.

I did the 1st and 3rd(crux) pitches and Tim did the 2nd and 4th(chockstone) pitches as his first winter leads. Not bad at all really! All I can really say about the route was that it was very fun and in good condition considering the horrible rain we endured throughout. I think the pictures tell the best story with respect to the weather (i.e. my camera is constantly wet!)

Just before the chockstone

Team Paramo

The looong way down

I noticed on UKC that Andy Nisbet had done the route the previous day and thought it hard for the grade. As my first substantial ice I'm pretty pleased, as even though on the crux I wasn't sure if my trousers were wet from rain or not, in retrospect I didn't find it that bad at all. I won't embarrass Anna, but lets just say she had fun on the chockstone! :D

We descended the south side of Liathach which was steep and unrelenting but favorable over the long walk around from the North side. We were treated to sunshine for the last half an hour and achieved amazing timing by catching the passing minibus. 

Sunday was a well earnt rest day. Besides, I had the mother of all headaches which I think was due to sleeping besides the fire and potentially getting gased all night. I did feel light a few brain cells first thing in the morning.....

More photos

A picnic at 1000m

After driving what seemed like a billion miles for my friends wedding in Stafford and a late evening at the Banff UK screening in Glasgow, I stopped at Stewart's flat for a couple of hours kip before heading up to Glencoe.


Plan A was North Buttress on Buachaille Etive Mor however from the Kinghouse carp park it didn't look favourable. Plus, I was quick to mention that I was absolutely shattered. Paradoxically, I did then go on to suggest we try Raeburns Route IV,4 in SCNL, with probably the stiffest walk in the Glen! Fatigue aside we packed bags and started the arduous slog uphill.


The standard approach time of 1hr45ish raced by in sweat soaked conversation. It was warm! We arrived in the coire and were treated to some dramatic views of the buttresses disappearing every few minutes into the cloud. There were lots of teams in the coire, spread all over the place. Two teams were on Raeburns and in the time taken to gear up and approach, the first team hadn't got too far along.

We decided to change plan and try a direct approach on Dorsal Arete. I'd done the route previously but with time moving on and not being prepared for ice we headed over. This, in hindsight, was a bad idea with Dorsal Arete being like Covent Garden tube station in all but the worst conditions. 


I started up the variation start which probably went around III. My eyes were glued to a 'straight up the middle' line but on reaching a verglas choked overhanging corner, my unfamiliarity with Andesite and my fear got the better of me. Instead I traversed by wading across powder filled ledges and occasionally having to bridge over a couple of wide cracks. Did I mention I hate traversing?

Stewart coming up the variation start

Climber descending Broad Gully

At the first belay on the route proper now it was clear what a mistake it was to join this route. None the less, we joined the cue and had a chat with the people in front. James got the next pitch.

"I'll just pop up and have a look" I said, before disappearing off up the next easy section. I'm told whilst I was away the tea was drunk and it was the last time it was warm....

I met up with the guys in front (Becky and casparmck) and could now behold the aforementioned tube station. They decided to walk off the side into Broad Gully rather than wait. As we'd already passed up Raeburn's I thought we'd just stick around waiting. So James and Stewart came up to join me and we had a little picnic.

Standard

The view

Whilst eating we photo'd two teams on climbs on Central Buttress, not sure of the routes but they looked steep from where we were.

When it was our turn we headed up to the well-photographed arete pitch (ironically, I don't have any photographs of this as my camera went flat!). Having seconded the route before but going around the pinnacles, I was keen to lead it going straight over the top. Over the top I did. Although, in the spirit of never learning my lesson, I started from way below the arete and placed some ridiculously short runners resulting in mega rope drag. Pulling up onto the broad part of the ridge I must of looked like one of those guys on 'World's Strongest Man' pulling the concrete lorry! Plenty of people up top taking embarrassing photographs too!


A succession of bums slides later found us back at our stash down the bottom ready to walk out, only needing head torches for the last couple of hundred metres. I like when you can halve your approach time on the descent! 

Cracking route and cracking company

Alpine Scotland: a photo essay

Myself and Stephi have been meaning to climb together for a while. A high pressure system on the horizon and some big plans led to a weekends fun in the Northern Corries. Through the Dundee Rucksack Club, a large group of us were doing an MCofS winter climbers workshop. I had the stirling idea of booking a YHA for the night so we could have two days in Aviemore and it would be grand. It was grand in the end, but organising certainly isn't my fortay!

A 5.30am start from Perth should see us into the Loch Avon basin pretty early right? Well, yes it would if we hadn't chatted too much and gone 25 miles north of Aviemore before realising. With the early start wasted we raced up Fiaciall a' Choire Chais in perfect sunshine. I decided to take my SLR with me on this day and was so glad I did. I feel the quality of photos is so much better over my compact. So, apologies in advance if this is a little 'photo heavy'.

 We were treated to an inversion on the way up. The shadow of the plateau cast over the clouds was awe inspiring. It was tempting to strip down to baselayer only it was so warm...this was not a great sign.

Making good time we were optimistic about the route planned for the day. Deep Cut Chimney IV,4 looked from recent blogs as a potentially 'in' mixed route on the only crag retaining much winterness. 

Everything went wrong, starting with decision to reach the base of the route with just ski poles and crampons - no harness on yet (?!). The apron just got steeper and without realising we found ourselves on ground we didn't really fancy gearing up on. Cue Stephi guiding my legs loops over my crampon spikes on a pretty small ledge with no belay options. Lesson learnt - gear up early!

At least I know my gear is good!

I did the first pitch which was a little unconsolidated but otherwise okay, then Stephi did the next which from the noises she was either enjoying or getting gripped! I wasn't too sure until I reached her. After quite a long time I seconded up to find a 7 point spiders web, I mean belay. "I wanted it to be good" she said. Well, it was bomber no doubt about that!

Perfect place to spend time standing around.

Generally being a little disappointed with the condition of the route we made a decision at the next belay. I inspected a little further up, but not far enough that I couldn't reverse the moves, however it just looked like a summer route further up. We were having such a lovely day in the sunshine, we didn't see the need to scratch up the bare rock that appeared to be ahead of us. Plus we were a little behind time. So, we did some sketchy abseils back down to the basin and started walking out. (Note to self: don't be afraid to leave more gear!)

Perfect end to the day

The following day we had an excellent winter climbers workshop with Kevin and Carl. We went right through all the prior research if you like; conditions; weather; avalanche hazard. We then went up into coire an t-sneachda to talk about where to gear up (a day too late!!) and practised making snow bollards and buried axe belays, amongst other little tidbits from the instructors. Overall a really helpful day.

Climbing Ninja strikes again

This is how you sit....

Note: this was a pre-dug anchor and Kevin requested me to say this was not his, as it was 'piss poor'....or words to that effect.

The penguin brigade